No mere condiment, salsa has been a ubiquitous flavoring element of Mexican cuisine since its pre-Hispanic origins. When the Spanish first arrived in Mexico in the early 16th century, according to Harvard historian David Carrasco, they encountered a Mexica culture whose cuisine already boasted a “myriad of sauces made from beans, tomatoes, avocados, tomatillos, chilies, squashes, and mushrooms” to fish and wild game.
Well before Mexico-sourced tomatoes were introduced to Europe and inspired Italian marinara sauces, the Mexica had created recipes (or inherited them from earlier Mesoamerican cultures) for sauces like mole and guacamole that remain iconic and widely popular more than 500 years later.
The essential ingredients in Mexican salsas
The presence of chile pepper is the defining and indispensable element of Mexican salsas, even more so than the use of tomato or tomatillo — staple ingredients in red and green sauces, respectively.
More than 60 varieties of chile pepper are grown in Mexico, and as any connoisseur can tell you, different flavors and textures (and sometimes names) are produced according to whether the pepper is fresh or dried. Commonly used peppers like chile de árbol, for instance, have the same name fresh or dried, while chipotle is the dried version of jalapeño and guajillo the dried version of the mirasol.
Tomatoes and tomatillos are thought to have originated wild in South America, but both were first domesticated in México; tomatoes by about 500 B.C.; and tomatillos even earlier, from 800 B.C. Even though tomatillo means “little tomato,” it’s not. Rather, it’s a ground cherry. But each is part of the Solanaceae family of fruit, a category that also includes potatoes and all the world’s peppers (yes, chile peppers too).
Garlic, lime and cilantro are the major salsa ingredients brought by the Spanish, thanks to emerging trade routes. All were introduced into Mexico in the 16th century. Onion, another one, was already present during the pre-Hispanic period — its Náhuatl name was “xonacatl” – but its reputation as an aid to good salsa rose considerably during the Spanish colonial period.
The Classics
Mole
The similarity in the names of mole and guacamole speaks to a shared origin in the Nahuatl language. The first recipe for this world-class Mexican sauce was long attributed to a 17th-century nun in Puebla, Andrea de la Asunción. However, the tomato, pumpkin seed, and chile-based favorite has since been traced back to pre-Hispanic times when it was called mulli or molli (sources differ on spelling). Nowadays, regional variations abound, including some, like mole poblano, made with chocolate. But in Mesoamerica, chocolate was typically served only in beverage form, while mole sauces spiced with assorted chilies were commonly served as an accompaniment to turkey.
Guacamole
Guacamole, too, has its origins in Nahuatl-speaking cultures. The Toltecs may have invented “ahuacamolli.” Their “Feathered Serpent” deity, Quetzalcoatl, is said to have revealed it via divine message. However, the Mexica also accepted Quetzalcoatl into their pantheon as a god and the first recipe comes down to us from them. The original version, as noted, lacked lime, onion, and cilantro. The Mexica used only avocado, chilies, salt, and occasionally tomatoes. Avocados it should be mentioned, have grown wild and been eaten in México for 10,000 years or so. But they are theorized to have been first cultivated around 1800 B.C. by the Mokaya, an Olmec precursor group who lived in Chiapas and are now better known as the first people to make chocolate.
Salsa Verde & Salsa Roja
Yes, salsa verde and salsa roja also date to pre-Hispanic México. Tomatillos and serrano chiles are the featured ingredients in the former, a versatile sauce that now tops everything from tacos and enchiladas to chilaquiles, quesadillas, and burritos. But garlic, onion, and cilantro are included, too, just as they are in the sauce’s “red” equivalent: salsa roja. The color difference between the two comes from the fruit of choice — tomato or tomatillo. Otherwise, these sauces are quite similar.
Salsa Bandera / Pico de Gallo
If you’re noticing a trend that suggests most iconic Mexican salsas date at least to the Mexica, salsa bandera provides further evidence. However, its name comes from the Spanish word for flag, as the main ingredients — tomato, onion, and serrano or jalapeño chiles (plus lime and cilantro) — have colors that mimic those in the Mexican flag. One of its names, that is. This salsa is also known as pico de gallo, or “the rooster’s beak.” Why? That’s unclear. But likely it acquired different monikers in different regions. By either name, it’s a superb accompaniment to Baja-style fish tacos, among other tacos and enchiladas.
Bottled Salsas
Bottled salsas have added another dimension to the culinary experience, allowing for flavoring on food items not previously sauced. Who can now deny, for instance, that Salsa Valentina is perfect on popcorn, chapulines or virtually any other snack item? The Guadalajaran brand first hit the market in 1954 and has been a national favorite ever since thanks to its pleasing mix of puya chilies, vinegar, and spices.
Several other bottled salsas — Huichol and Guacamaya, notably — date to the 1940s, while habanero-spiced El Yucateco didn’t premier until 1968. However, these are relatively recent additions to the Mexican salsa tradition. As we’ve seen, many of the best-known salsas used to flavor the nation’s cuisine — including those most likely to grace dishes at your favorite restaurants and street food stands — were created before Hernán Cortés and his Spanish soldiers conquered Tenochtitlan in 1521. Some well before.
The Joys of Salsa
That’s part of what makes Mexican cuisine so special. It’s a living tradition, with staple elements that evoke millennia of history. Tortillas, for example, are said to have been around for over 10,000 years. From that perspective, salsas of all kinds are a relatively recent invention. It’s hard to imagine Mexican food without them, though. Salsas are the heart and soul of any dish they accompany and they accompany everything.
If you’ve ever felt a sense of joy as you dig into a hearty Mexican dinner, it’s likely because of the chile peppers in your salsa. They contain capsaicin, a compound that yes, makes your tongue burn. But it also signals the body to release endorphins and dopamine, flooding you with happiness and a profound sense of well-being. So the flavor is only part of the magic. Salsas please on many levels.
Chris Sands is the Cabo San Lucas local expert for the USA Today travel website 10 Best, writer of Fodor’s Los Cabos travel guidebook, and a contributor to numerous websites and publications, including Tasting Table, Marriott Bonvoy Traveler, Forbes Travel Guide, Porthole Cruise, Cabo Living and Mexico News Daily. His specialty is travel-related content and lifestyle features focused on food, wine and golf.
Source: Mexico News Daily
