a recipe to a Mesoamerican dish

When I think tamales teamed with a sweetened rice pudding and drizzled in goat’s milk caramel, I can’t think of a more apropos holiday dessert for those of us living in Mexico — so this week, let’s try making some arroz con leche tamales. 

But what is a tamal? It’s a traditional Mesoamerican dish, made from masa harina (corn flour treated with lime). It is then spread onto a corn husk or banana leaf, stuffed with different fillings and steamed until cooked. The fillings may be meats, cheeses, beans and vegetables — all seasoned with incredible Mexican spices. Or, they may be sweet, as in our recipe.

The history of the tamal is fascinating! Dating to about 5,000 BC, they existed as a staple throughout early Mexican history. They also played an integral role in the diets of the Aztecs and Mayans. Tamales were not only food to these people but had cultural and religious significance, and were prepared with different fillings depending upon the specific religious festival for which they were made. It is even said in Aztec mythology that Tzitzimitl, a celestial demon, sacrificed her grandson to make tamales from his flesh. 

Tamales transformed, however, following the Spanish conquest when European ingredients were introduced to Mexico in the form of pigs and cows rather than local meats like turkey and deer. The Spanish tried desperately to replace the corn-based tamale with wheat flour products, but without success. The tamale might have evolved, but it kept its corn-core identity. 

In the late 19th century, due to the Mexican Revolution, tamales once again metamorphosed. Mexican people wanted their own, unadulterated cuisine and were looking to return to traditional Mexican fare. The tamale, once considered peasant food, was now elevated to a loftier status, a symbol of national identity and cultural heritage. 

Today, tamales are also symbols of joy and a staple of Mexican cuisine, becoming an integral part of holidays, especially Christmas — and that leads us to our recipe: Disfruta y Feliz Navidad!

Coconut Arroz con Leche Tamales

Ingredients:

• 2 3/4 Cups (625 g) water, divided (agua)
• 3/4 Cup (150 g) uncooked jasmine rice *or any long-grain rice (arroz jazmín) 
• 2 (2-inch) cinnamon sticks (palitos de canela)
• 1 (13.5-ounce or 370 g) can unsweetened full-fat coconut milk (leche de coco entera sin azúcar)

• 1 1/4 Cups (283 g) whole milk, divided (leche entera)
• 1 1/2 Cups (250 g) granulated sugar, divided (azúcar estándar)
• 1 vanilla bean, seeds scraped (la vaina de vainilla)
• 3/4 tsp. (3.25 g) almond extract (extracto de almendra)
• 1 TBS. (15 g) plus 3/4 tsp. (4 g) kosher salt, divided (sal kosher)
• 1 Cup (227 g) unsalted butter (8 ounces), softened (mantequilla sin sal)
  • Best Mexican brands: Lala; Gloria; Alpura; Aguascalientes; Flor de Alfalfa.
• 1/2 Cup (95 g) vegetable shortening (manteca vegetal)
  • Use Inca Manteca brand, found in Mexico.

• 2 lbs. masa harina prepared according to package directions
• 24 dried corn husks (about 9 inches long and 7 inches wide at widest point), plus more for lining steamer, soaked at least 1 hour or up to overnight. (hojas de maíz)

• Cajeta (goat’s milk caramel) or dulce de leche, for serving

Directions

• In a large saucepan over medium heat, bring 1 3/4 Cups water, rice, and cinnamon sticks to a boil. 
• Boil, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until water is mostly absorbed, 6 to 10 minutes. 
• Stir in coconut milk, 3/4 Cup whole milk, 1/4 Cup sugar, vanilla bean seeds, almond extract, and 3/4 tsp. salt. 
• Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, uncovered, stirring often, until mixture has thickened to a pudding-like consistency, 15 to 20 minutes. 
• Remove from heat, and transfer to a large bowl. Discard cinnamon sticks. 
• Let cool to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Next:

• In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, combine butter, shortening, 1 Cup sugar, and remaining 1 Tbs. salt. Beat on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. 
• With mixer on medium-low speed, gradually add masa. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until mixture is smooth and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-low, and gradually stream in remaining 1 Cup water and remaining 1/2 Cup whole milk. 
• Beat on medium-low speed until mixture is well combined and smooth, 3 to 5 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape sides of bowl. 
  • NOTE: The prepared masa should be the texture of cake batter. 
• Cover bowl with a damp paper towel; set aside.

Next:

• Place 1 corn husk on a clean work surface with narrow end pointing away from you; pat dry. 
• Using the back of a spoon, spread about 1/3 Cup prepared masa lengthwise in center of corn husk, spread evenly in a 5- x 4-inch rectangle. 
• Spoon about 2 Tbs. arroz con leche pudding down the center of masa rectangle, leaving a 1/2-inch border of masa above and below pudding. 
• Sprinkle 1/2 tsp. sugar over arroz con leche pudding. 
• Fold one side of husk across so that masa encases the filling. 
• Fold top end of corn husk down toward the center, and roll to wrap remaining husk around the tamal, leaving bottom end open. 
• Repeat with remaining husks, masa mixture, arroz con leche pudding, and sugar.

Next:

• Fill a large stockpot with 1 inch of water. Place a steamer insert (at least 7 inches deep) in stockpot, ensuring water does not touch bottom of steamer. 
  • NOTE: Tamales should be tightly packed together. If the steamer is too big, use aluminum foil to build a ring inside pot to hold tamales upright.
• Line bottom and sides of steamer with corn husks. 
• Stand tamales vertically in steamer, with open ends up, in a single layer. 
• Heat pot over medium-high until steam is visible, 5 to 8 minutes. 
• Place a layer of corn husks on top of tamales.  
• Cover tamales with a clean kitchen towel, and place lid on top. 
• Reduce heat to low. Cook 45 minutes. To test doneness, carefully uncover pot, and remove 1 tamal. Let tamal rest 10 minutes before unfolding. If masa sticks to corn husk, rewrap tamal, and return to steamer basket. In the meantime, allow remaining tamales to keep cooking.
• Continue cooking tamales 5 minutes before checking again for doneness. 
• If corn husk pulls away cleanly from masa, turn off heat, and let tamales rest in pot, lid removed, towel and husks in place, for 15 minutes. 
• Serve tamales warm with a drizzle of cajeta or dulce de leche. 

Cajeta

*Recipe: Mexicanmademeatless.com

Equipment:

• 1 large heavy pot
• 1 wooden spoon
• 8 oz. clean glass jar

Ingredients:

•  2 Cups or 16 oz. or (500 ml) goat milk* (leche de cabra)
• ⅓ Cup (65 g) or up to ½ Cup (100 g) white sugar (azúcar estándar)
• ½ tsp. (2.17 g) vanilla extract* (extracto de vainilla) or ¼ tsp. (1.42 g) bourbon vanilla powder (vainilla bourbon en polvo)
  • Mexican brands of vanilla extract, noted for intense flavor: Villa Vainilla; Vainilla Totonac’s; Molina Vainilla 
• 1 whole cinnamon stick (palito de canela)
• Pinch of salt (sal)
• ¼ tsp. (1.42 g) baking soda (bicarbonato)
• 2 Tbs. (30.6 g) whole fat cow’s milk (leche entera)

Directions:

• Into a large, heavy pot pour the goat’s milk, sugar, salt, vanilla, and cinnamon (if using). 
• Bring to a light boil over medium heat. 
• Stir to make sure all the sugar has dissolved.
• Remove from heat.

Next:

• In a separate bowl, mix the cow’s milk and baking soda until the baking soda has dissolved. 
• Pour the baking soda mixture into the goat’s milk, stirring fast. Be careful because the liquid will quickly froth and overflow. 
• Stir until the bubbles have subsided then return the pot to the heat and turn the heat to medium.
• Continue to cook the goat’s milk mixture, stirring frequently because the mixture may bubble and overflow the pot. 
• After 20-30 minutes the mixture should begin to a darken and become thick.
• Continue simmering and stirring frequently until the mixture turns a dark caramel color and coats a wood spoon. This may take another 20-40 minutes. The cajeta should the same consistency as maple syrup.
• Pour into a jar and allow to cool completely. 
• Store in the refrigerator until ready to use. 
  • NOTE: The cajeta will keep fresh in the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. It tastes best if warmed a bit before using.

¡Disfruta!

Deborah McCoy is the one-time author of mainstream, bridal-reference books who has turned her attention to food, particularly sweets, desserts and fruits. She is the founder of CakeChatter™ on FaceBook and X (Twitter), and the author of four baking books for “Dough Punchers” (available @amazon.com). She is also the president of The American Academy of Wedding Professionals™ (aa-wp.com).