A riot of seafood flavors

Legend has it that the taco gobernador was born in a Sinaloa restaurant, created for a visiting governor. Whether that’s true or not, it feels right. This dish is political in a way: like a politician building an unlikely coalition, tacos gobernador takes seafood and cheese, two foods most people don’t dare to combine, and makes something extraordinary.

Shrimp, those marvelous little sea bugs, take center stage. I always laugh when I’m reminded how shrimp and lobster were once considered undesirable low-class foods. They’re nature’s pre-packaged protein bombs, lean and rich in umami. When exposed to heat, their translucent muscle fibers contract, turning opaque and tender. This isn’t just a visual cue: it’s a textural transformation that tells you the shrimp are at their peak and ready to be inhaled.

Then comes the cheese. Cheese is glue and magic. It holds things together when life — or tortillas — might fall apart. Oaxaca cheese melts just right; not too fast, not too slow, but like it’s been waiting all its life to drape itself over shrimp and make everything okay.

Poblano chili, smoky and gentle, carries a memory of fire without being obnoxious about it. Jalapeño is for the thrill-seekers. The tomato softens things, a gentle nudge toward sweetness. And there’s the garlic and onion, reliable as clockwork.

The butter is the unsung hero, a fat that carries flavor and ensures the aromatics — garlic and onion — release their full potential. These alliums, when sautéed, undergo caramelization, which adds depth and a subtle sweetness to the mix. 

Why does it work? Because it’s honest. It doesn’t pretend to be fancy or profound. It’s just shrimp and cheese and fire and love wrapped in a tortilla. But isn’t that what we’re all looking for? Something simple that makes us feel whole — or full — for a minute? Life is messy and delicious, and sometimes the best thing you can do is fold it in half and take a bite.

Tacos gobernador

Ingredients

For the filling

• 1 lb (450 g) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and roughly chopped
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 medium tomato, finely chopped
• 1 poblano pepper, roasted, peeled, and diced
• 1 jalapeño or serrano pepper, finely chopped (optional, for extra heat)
• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 1 tsp oregano
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 1 cup shredded Oaxaca or mozzarella cheese

For the tacos

• 8 corn tortillas
• Fresh cilantro, chopped (for garnish)
• Lime wedges, for serving

Instructions

1. Roast the poblano pepper over an open flame or in a hot skillet until the skin is charred. Place it in a covered bowl to steam for 10 minutes. Peel off the charred skin, remove the seeds and dice the flesh.
2. Heat the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, sautéing until softened and fragrant.
3. Stir in the tomato and chilis. Cook for about 3-4 minutes until the mixture softens.
4. Add shrimp, smoked paprika, oregano, salt and pepper. Cook until the shrimp turn pink and are fully cooked, about 3-5 minutes.
5. Heat a tortilla in a dry skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle a layer of cheese on one half of the tortilla and let it melt slightly.
6. Spoon a generous portion of the shrimp mixture onto the cheesy side of the tortilla. Fold it over into a taco shape and cook for 1-2 minutes on each side until crispy and golden.
7. Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve immediately with lime wedges on the side.

Stephen Randall has lived in Mexico since 2018 by way of Kentucky, and before that, Germany. He’s an enthusiastic amateur chef who takes inspiration from many different cuisines, with favorites including Mexican and Mediterranean.