This week’s episode spotlights a historic hub for Tokyo’s working-class culture at a crossroads as redevelopment plans stall and new projects reshape the area.
A historic hub for Tokyo’s working-class culture, Shinbashi is undergoing a transformation that could reshape its identity forever. Once a bustling gathering place for salarymen looking to unwind after work, the area is at a crossroads as redevelopment plans stall, while new projects nearby threaten to shift the balance of commerce and culture.
This week’s episode focuses on Shinbashi, which has long been known for its vibrant nightlife. It is home to around 1,700 eateries, including long-established yakitori joints and traditional izakayas. One such establishment, Hosaka, has been serving up perfectly grilled skewers for over 50 years. “It’s great value for money,” testifies one patron, “This is absolutely delicious!” The area’s old-school charm, a remnant of the Showa era, continues to draw both veteran salarymen and younger office workers looking for an authentic Tokyo experience.
But just a few streets away, a different story unfolds. The New Shinbashi Building, an 11-storey landmark constructed in 1971 sited next to the busy Shinbashi Station, now stands as a relic of the past. Once a haven for small businesses, the building has fallen into disrepair. Water leaks, ageing infrastructure, and outdated facilities have made urgent renovation necessary – the building’s boiler while still functioning, was made in 1945.
“As a town, if we don’t renovate, we will fall behind,” says Tetsuharu Nagao, chairman of the New Shinbashi Building’s resident association. However, despite discussions that began over a decade ago, progress remains elusive.
The redevelopment of Shinbashi Station’s west exit was initially set to be completed by 2026, but delays have pushed the timeline into uncertainty. In contrast, neighbouring areas such as Toranomon and Hamamatsucho have surged ahead with modernisation projects, attracting crowds. COVID-19 has also affected the customer base. Kazutoshi Ueda, a third-generation chef at Sushidokoro Kinbee, a sushi restaurant that has been operating for 65 years laments how the pandemic has decimated the once-thriving corporate dining scene. “Given our location, corporate dining was a big part of our business, but since COVID-19, it’s almost completely gone.” Ueda notes.
Despite these challenges, innovative entrepreneurs see potential in Shinbashi’s charm. Yoshinori Hamakura, CEO of HAMAKURA-STYLE Store Production Inc., has taken a bold approach to revitalisation. His latest project, Grand Hammer, is an ambitious attempt to merge tradition with modern entertainment. The eight-storey building, previously vacant for two years, is being transformed into a multi-level complex designed to draw both locals and tourists. “Shinbashi’s charm is its narrow alleyways. We want more people to discover this,” says Hamakura, who has pioneered similar projects in Ebisu and Shinjuku.
Grand Hammer is no ordinary development. The first floor, named “Yokocho Bushou,” features an alleyway-style restaurant with 12 samurai suits of armour displays. The third floor hosts “The Club Tokyo,” a Showa-era cabaret, while the seventh floor offers “O2 Plage,” a sauna for relaxation. But the most striking feature is in the basement — a massive aquarium designed to showcase the skills of Japan’s traditional ama divers, free-divers who have been harvesting seafood for over 10,000 years. “I hope there is some interest in the culture of ama divers. It would make me happy,” says Aya Sugimoto, an ama diver from Minami-Izu who has agreed to perform at the venue.
Yet, not everyone is convinced that such a concept will work. Concerns were raised about the authenticity of turning an ancient tradition into an entertainment spectacle. “They risk their lives to dive. Is it okay to make it a show?” questioned a member of the Toba Tourism Association. However, after seeing the facilities—including a specially designed resting area for divers—some sceptics were swayed. “I was surprised. It was much better than I expected,” one official admitted after visiting the site.
Back at the New Shinbashi Building, uncertainty lingers. A recent meeting among stakeholders highlighted the complexities of redevelopment. “If we start now, it’ll take five years to tear things down, and another five years to rebuild,” explains Jun Tanaka, chairperson of the building’s management. Economic volatility, rising construction costs and differing opinions among the 312 property owners have made consensus difficult to achieve. “It has taken a long time to revise the plans,” Nagao acknowledges. Meanwhile, locals worry about preserving the essence of Shinbashi. Tetsuo Maru, president of the Shinbashi Station neighbourhood association, warns, “If we rebuild everything and make Shinbashi look like everywhere else, Shinbashi will lose all its charm.”
Despite these challenges, Hamakura remains optimistic. Grand Hammer officially opened its doors in late November, quickly attracting curious visitors. Foreign tourists, drawn by the novelty, added to the lively atmosphere. “It looked pretty cool, so I wanted to check it out.” said a patron while sipping a cold beer. The venue also introduced rickshaw tours around Shinbashi, further blending nostalgia with modern experiences.
The response from Shinbashi’s long-time residents has been encouraging. Nagao, initially sceptical, was impressed by Hamakura’s creativity. “His ideas are really creative. It’s about thinking outside the box. We need fresh ideas like these to move forward,” he says. While the future of the New Shinbashi Building remains uncertain, Hamakura’s swift execution of Grand Hammer has sparked new discussions on what revitalisation could look like for the area.
Shinbashi stands at a pivotal moment. Will it retain its reputation as the beloved sanctuary for salarymen, or will it succumb to modernisation efforts that risk erasing its character? For now, as salarymen continue to raise their glasses in alleyway bars, the heart of Shinbashi still beats strong—but for how much longer remains to be seen.
Source: CNA
