My grandmother wasn’t the type of woman who spent her days in the kitchen. She worked during an era when it was uncommon for women to do so. As a result, we didn’t grow up with the typical Mexican grandmother who lived to cook for her family. She only cooked on special occasions, such as birthdays or during vacations, and when she did, she made it an event. She would have us rolling tortillas, making tamales, baking cakes, or crafting buñuelos de rodilla. Whenever our attempts were disastrous, she would laugh heartily at our clumsiness.
Today, I want to talk about buñuelos because they are a staple this time of year, and they remind me of my grandmother’s laughter whenever mine turned out less than perfect compared to hers.
What are buñuelos?
Buñuelos are a type of dough made from flour and eggs, which is fried in oil or lard. They are typically topped with piloncillo syrup or sprinkled with sugar. While I would love to claim that this recipe originated with my grandmother, the truth is that it dates back thousands of years, and its exact origins remain unclear.
Possible Origin No. 1: Lunculus. In the Roman Empire, people made a dough with flour and honey, which they then fried in oil, making it quite popular.
Possible Origin No. 2: Andalucía. Olé! During the Moorish occupation of southern Spain from 700 to 1492, gastronomy played a vital role in daily life — not only as a means of sustenance but also as a source of joy and devotion to their God. Desserts were so highly esteemed that poems were written about them, and buñuelos were no exception. In fact, there are records of penalties being imposed for poorly made buñuelos. Thank goodness my grandmother wasn’t aware of this custom; otherwise, she’d have surely penalized me!
Let’s not forget that this part of Spain was previously under Roman rule. (Did you picture Maximus Decimus Meridius, The Spaniard, like I did?) I wouldn’t doubt for a second that lunculus was the precursor to the Andalusian buñuelo.
Buñuelos de Viento and Buñuelos de Rodilla
Buñuelos became popular throughout the Spanish Empire, and when the Spanish arrived in Mexico, they brought this delightful tradition with them.
It is believed that our renowned colonial poet, Sor Juana Inés de la Cruz — who famously wrote, “You foolish men who accuse women unjustly without realizing that you are the cause of what you blame” — authored the convent’s recipe book. This book includes a recipe for buñuelos that is still preserved to this day.
The two main types of buñuelos are essentially the same recipe with slight variations. In my opinion, buñuelos de rodilla are far superior to buñuelos de viento. Buñuelos de viento are shaped like snowflakes and coated in a mixture of cinnamon and sugar.
Meanwhile, buñuelos de rodilla are large, round sheets of flour dough that are shaped on the knee. Don’t worry; the dough doesn’t come into contact with your pants or skin. A damp cloth is placed over the knee to make the stretching of the dough easier, although shaping it’s tricky, and that’s the part where my grandmother would laugh until she cried, watching our dough disks end up looking more like squashed donuts. The dough is then fried and coated in a piloncillo syrup that is sweet but not overly cloying, making the buñuelos utterly addictive.
Make your own buñuelos
For the Dough
- ¾ cup of water (180 ml)
- 1 tablespoon of anise liqueur (15 ml)
- 2 cups of flour (280 g)
- 1 teaspoon of baking powder (2 g)
- 1 egg (50 g)
- 1 tablespoon of sugar (15 g)
- 1½ tablespoons of butter (22.5 g)
- Corn oil for frying
For the Piloncillo Syrup
- 1 cone of piloncillo (10 cm, 200 g)
- 1 stick of cinnamon (10 cm, 5 g)
- 1 tablespoon of anise seeds (5 g)
- 1 guava (60 g)
- 2 cups of water (480 ml)
Instructions
- Heat the water with the anise liqueur, then allow it to cool slightly.
- In a bowl, mix the flour and baking powder. In the center of the dry ingredients, add the egg, sugar, and butter. Gradually mix in the warm anise water as needed.
- Knead the dough for 10 minutes, or until it is smooth.
- Cover the dough and let it rest for 40 minutes.
- Divide the dough into small balls.
- Roll each ball out to about 15 cm in diameter.
- Place a bowl upside down and cover it with a cloth, or cover your knee with a cloth. Stretch the rolled-out dough over the bowl (or your knee), gently pulling the edges with your fingertips until it is very thin.
- Heat corn oil in a pan and fry the buñuelos until they are golden brown. Drain them on paper towels.
To make the Piloncillo Syrup
- In a saucepan, combine all the ingredients and bring to a boil. Cook until the syrup reaches a thick consistency.
- Once the buñuelos are fried, drizzle them with the syrup.
Amigos, cooking is a way to connect with living history. As you gather with your loved ones, help keep our traditions alive by making buñuelos de rodilla. And if they turn out misshapen or not quite as expected, do as my grandmother used to do: laugh — lots!
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
Source: Mexico News Daily
