Friends, did you think that all the Christmas celebrations were over? No, sir. In Mexico, we still have a couple more festivities and meals to enjoy: Día de Reyes (Three Kings’ Day) and Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas Day). Both celebrations are tied to the Catholic calendar, which has influenced life in Mexico for centuries. Although modernity has somewhat diminished the religious aspect, the festivities and food remain an important part of our culture.
Every January 5th, Mexican children write letters to the Reyes Magos — the same Wise Men who visited the Baby Jesus at his birth. If we’ve behaved well, we receive presents on the morning of January 6th. That’s right: Mexican children get gifts twice, once on Christmas Day and again on Three Kings’ Day.
After the excitement of receiving and opening our presents starts to fade, we need a little sugar to keep our energy up, so we enjoy a slice of Rosca de Reyes and a cup of hot chocolate. Once we’re recharged, we’re sent off to play with our new toys in a place where we won’t disturb the adults.
What is the Rosca de Reyes?
It’s a circular-shaped bread, similar to a giant doughnut. This giant doughnut is topped with frutas cristalizadas (traditional sweets preserved using pre-Hispanic techniques), like figs, ate (fruit paste made from various fruits), and acitrón. The bread also features sections of the same sugar glaze used for conchas. In recent decades, some people have begun filling the rosca with creams and frostings. I’m not a huge fan of this trend, but give it a go.
What makes this huge doughnut special?
Small figurines of the Baby Jesus are hidden throughout the Rosca, allowing people who eat it to find them.
Traditions around the Rosca
This tradition is not exclusive to Mexico; many countries with a strong Catholic influence have their own variations of this bread. In Spain, it is known as Roscón de Reyes; in Portugal, it is called Bolo Rei; in France, it’s referred to as Galette des Rois; and in northern Italy, it’s named Focaccia della Befana. While these breads differ in style and ingredients, they share two common characteristics: they are traditionally served on January 6th, and each contains a figurine that someone is meant to find.
The Origin
Some historians believe that the tradition of the Rosca de Reyes is an adaptation of an ancient Roman festival honoring Saturn, celebrated at the end of December. During this festival, people ate a type of sweet bread that contained a hidden small object, turning it into a game.
With the spread of Christianity, bread became associated with the crown of the Magi, and January 6th was established as the official date to share it with loved ones.
Back to Mexico
This tradition is undoubtedly one we inherited from the Spaniards, but as Mexicans, we experience a particular sadness when there’s no upcoming celebration to look forward to, as if life loses its significance. To address this, we have created our own tradition. First and foremost, it’s important for everyone to gather around the rosca and pay close attention to what unfolds.
1. We cut the Rosca de Reyes. It used to be mostly a family event; now it’s an excuse to get together at work, school, or anywhere else.
2. It’s almost like playing Russian roulette. Friends, few moments are as tense as deciding where to cut the rosca. Keep in mind that small Baby Jesus figurines are hidden throughout. When you receive your slice, you feel the weight of responsibility. If you’re sitting with a group of Mexicans, you’ll definitely hear an enthusiastic chorus of “ahhhhhhhh” when someone finds a Baby Jesus.
3. You found a Baby Jesus figurine. Amigos, you now have a significant responsibility — almost a patriotic duty — to take charge of the “tamaliza” on Candlemas Day (Día de la Candelaria). Don’t worry; we’ll discuss this celebration as the date approaches. You have nearly a month to prepare tamales and atoles for everyone who participated in the Rosca de Reyes.
Where to Buy Good Rosca de Reyes?
In Mexico City, I have three favorite places to get rosca:
1. Panadería Rosetta: This bakery is always busy, and you need to order in advance, but it’s definitely worth it for their delicious rosca.
2. Panmex: Located in the southern part of Mexico City, Panmex is one of the best bakeries in the city. Their rosca tastes as good now as it did 35 years ago — it’s unbeatable for me.
3. City Market: It may seem unusual to recommend a rosca from a supermarket, but I’ve recently found that City Market’s bakery is surprisingly good. It’s a classic option for taking to the office or large gatherings, especially when you’re on a budget.
Enjoy your rosca with hot chocolate, write your letter to the Reyes Magos — they’ll surely bring you gifts! — and don’t forget to note who got the Baby Jesus figurines in the Rosca. They owe you tamales.
María Meléndez is a Mexico City food blogger and influencer.
Source: Mexico News Daily
