The best food in Ensenada and Valle de Guadalupe

Besides my home base in Mexico City, Valle de Guadalupe and Ensenada in northern Baja California are my hands-down favorite places to eat in Mexico. The fresh seafood needs almost nothing added, the wine is outstanding and the chefs who live here have taken the culinary influences of the area and created a food scene that is a multicultural mosaic of flavor.

From sprawling countryside grills to intimate bistro-style restaurants and street food stands, there is a vibe for any eater, but come prepared to eat a lot and spend a lot. If you’re ready to go, here are some of my favorite places in northern Baja that you don’t want to miss. 

Fine dining in the Valle 

Fauna

Walking in after dark, wood smoke drifted out to meet us at Fauna. The warm glow of the firepits and the low-lit Edison lightbulbs added to the rustic romance. Sitting down at the long, family-style wood table, the first dish, a fresh oyster in smoked tomato water, started everything in my body humming.

The ceviche with chile toreado, mayo, cucumber and mushrooms was not watered down for anyone’s palate: its heat lingered in the back of the throat long after each bite. The rabbit and celery root chocochoyotas were mild but salty, the squash seeds give the dish a touch of nuttiness.

Serendipitously, I found myself sitting next to chef David Castro, who told me his food doesn’t fit into any category, which is true — it transcends them all and leaves you wanting more.

Carretera Tecate–Ensenada, Km 73, Francisco Zarco

Lunario

This is true farm-to-table: diners walk through Lunario’s massive vegetable gardens to get to the restaurant. It’s the mix of flavors and textures that makes Chef Sheyla Alvarado’s food stand out. There are no power punches here, just a subtle blend of things that has you savoring and questioning each exquisite bite. 

The crushed sage on the tomato salad that was our first dish was delicate and mouth-opening, and each dish that followed only got better. The striped bass brought a cornucopia of textures: crunchy skin, the slight chalkiness of the grilled blue corn kernels, baby soft panela cheese, plus an ultra creamy sauce that blends poblano chili, epazote and fish broth. We skipped the wine pairing but some wine-obsessed friends said that this was one of the best pairings they have ever experienced… anywhere.

Camino Vecinal Parcela 71 Fracc. 3 Lote 13, San Marcos, El Porvenir

Damiana

Chef Esteban Lluis had to move around a little bit in Valle de Guadalupe to find the right home for his project. Damiana’s current location on the Viñedos de la Reina winery pairs well with the laid-back fine dining feel of his food. 

Under the Brazilian pepper trees, diners go one by one through Chef LLuis’s tasting menu with wine pairing. The tetela stuffed with requesón cheese and bean puree is creamy with slight tang from the purslane garnish, topped with a salty chicatana ant salsa, roasted abalone and a cured egg yolk. The sea urchin gazpacho, made with almonds and geoduck clam, is perfectly cool and fishy. Everything was thoughtful and delicate.

Carretera Tecate–Ensenada, Km 71

Finca Altozano

The experience of sitting out on the deck of Chef Javier Plascencia’s Finca Altozano, surrounded by the vineyards and slicing into a perfectly grilled prime rib or oak-grilled quail while sipping a glass of Valle de Guadalupe red feels quintessentially Baja. Brought to you by famed, Finca proves Plascencia hasn’t lost his touch.

Carretera Tecate–Ensenada, Km 83, Ejido Francisco Zarco

Villa Torél

When a restaurant is the Monday night hangout of people in the food industry you know it has it together. The setting at Villa Torél gives oasis vibes with views of the distant mountains just beyond the vineyards of the Santo Tomas winery, where it is located. 

The ambiance is lovely but not overly fussy. The beef tongue pastrami was seasoned just enough to overwhelm any gaminess and razor thin for an excellent texture. The charred carrot with citrus cream and duck au jus was deceivingly simple, but so decadent I could have eaten plate after plate of just that. The fideo seco with fried calamari with a squeeze of lemon? Perfection.

Carretera 3, Km 94.7, Villa de Juárez

Easy eating for less fancy days

Bruma Wine Garden

Just because this is the more casual spot at Bruma Wine Resort doesn’t mean its menu has been regulated to an afterthought. It’s obvious that Chef Castro wants diners to walk away impressed no matter which one of his restaurants they eat at. 

Just as with Fauna, the acid, salt and umami flavors of the Bruma Wine Garden menu are on point. This is not the fine dining tasting menu of the former, but instead comfort food with pizzazz. For instance the carne apache, an amped up version of beef tartar with black sesame, or the tangy pork jowl sourdough pizza or even the fried chicken and waffles drizzled with maple syrup. This is by far one of the best hotel breakfasts you’ll ever have.

Carretera Tecate–Ensenada, Km 73.5

Cocina de Doña Esthela

I tried to go to Doña Esthela’s three times on a holiday weekend and each time it was absolutely packed with people and I didn’t have the time to wait. When I finally did get there on a regular Tuesday morning I understood why. It’s like what a Cracker Barrel wishes it was: truly rustic and homey, with cowboys and families, antique tea pots sets and black and white photos on the walls.

The northern classics like machaca with eggs and vegetables were absolutely unbeatable. The fresh goat that they made was hands down the best queso fresco I have ever had: salty, moist, dense, cheesy without being gamey. Down-home and revitalizing, I will be back again, if only for the cheese.

Carretera El Tigre–El Porvenir between Km 13 and 14, Rancho San Marcos

Erizo Valle de Guadalupe

This is the new-to-me spot on the Finca Altozano compound and it’s a more casual and quick option than doing a full meal at the namesake restaurant. I had a mouth-watering tripe and fresh tuna tostada with ponzu sauce, baked onion, tomato and cucumber, as well as the cilantro-laden green shrimp ceviche tostada. Both were amazing. 

The salsa was fire, literally and figuratively, and the cocktails went far beyond my expectations for a low-key seafood joint. Lupe is great for lunch out in the country or if you need to slow down after having eaten all day.

Carretera Tecate–Ensenada, Km 83, Ejido Francisco Zarco

Parador Mercedes

The newest project of Chef Diego Hernandez in conjunction with Chef Ana Juncal, Parador Mercedes is easygoing, diner-style eating for breakfast and lunch in the valley. The mollejas (fried chicken gizzards) were fiery, crispy and melt-in-your-mouth delightful and the butter biscuits with fresh pineapple and strawberry jam provided a sweet balance to all that spice and salt. 

The barbacoa was rich with a deep, cinnamon and clove flavor; the meat was pull-apart soft. Slivers of chewy, fatty machaca on top of the omelet with onion and bell pepper created an excellent version of this very traditional northern Mexico breakfast.

Carretera 3, Km 93, San Antonio de Las Minas

Da Toni

This popular local spot in Ensenada is run by actual Italians and it shows in the cooking. The burrata brusetta was so creamy it was almost like dessert. The broccoli rabe with ear-shaped pasta, fresh Parmesan cheese and anchovy was only outshone by some of the creamiest panna cotta I have ever had. 

The place is tiny, with a minuscule kitchen that only fits the four-person staff. A great mid-week treat for some serious carbs.

Av. Riveroll 143, Centro, Ensenada

Lydia Carey is a freelance writer and translator based out of Mexico City. She has been published widely both online and in print, writing about Mexico for over a decade. She lives a double life as a local tour guide and is the author of Mexico City Streets: La Roma. Follow her urban adventures on Instagram and see more of her work at www.mexicocitystreets.com.